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Yamaroku Tsurubishio Shoyu (ヤマロク醤油 鶴醤)
Kagawa / Shodoshima — Soy sauce

Yamaroku Tsurubishio Shoyu (ヤマロク醤油 鶴醤)

“Twice the ingredients, 4 years of time. Depth grown in a wooden barrel.”
¥2,386 / 500ml (reference price)
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  • Maker:Yamaroku Shoyu (founded around 150 years ago)
  • Direct from the maker, limited quantity

Stories about this bottle

Kanro shoyu, the two bottles to buy: Sagawa Shoyuten in Yanai and Yamaroku on Shodoshima
The two to reach for are "Kanro Shoyu" from Sagawa Shoyuten in Yanai, Yamaguchi (founded 1830), about 900 yen for 300ml, and "Tsurubishio" from Yamaroku Shoyu on Shodoshima, Kagawa, in the low 2,000 yen range for 500ml. Where it sits among the 5 JAS categories of shoyu, why simmering and stir-frying erase what makes it good, and whether to pick it for sashimi or for rice with raw egg. Named makers, prices, and how to choose. Plus where the Edo-period story of the lord of Iwakuni murmuring "kanro, kanro" comes from.
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"Kyushu shoyu: why it is sweet, how it differs by prefecture, and which bottle to start with"
Why the shoyu of Kyushu is sweet, explained through the region's history and climate. Includes how the sweetness differs between Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Fukuoka and the rest, how to read a label, and which bottle makes the best first one.
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The story behind it

Shodoshima is the home of kioke (wooden barrel) shoyu brewing. Of the few thousand brewing barrels left in all of Japan, roughly 1,000 are on this one island.

Yamaroku Shoyu's Tsurubishio is a saishikomi (brewed twice, with shoyu instead of brine) shoyu made in those barrels. Raw shoyu brewed over 1 to 2 years is used in place of the salt water, then returned to the kioke together with soybeans and wheat. Twice the ingredients, and roughly 4 years of waiting. At the end of all that labor comes a thick, syrupy savoriness.

Yasuo Yamamoto, the fifth-generation owner, launched the Kioke Craftsman Revival Project to keep the barrel-making craft from disappearing. Protecting shoyu means protecting the barrels. Behind one bottle is a plan for the island's next hundred years.

How to use it

It shows its best as a finishing or dipping shoyu: sashimi, chilled tofu, rice with raw egg. A few drops at the end change how a dish lingers. It is also well known poured over vanilla ice cream.

What travelers say

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